A woman in a red-striped skirt drives past on her old moped with side car. “When you see a skirt like this one, you know that you are on Kihnu”, she says. On this little island in the Riga Bay, around 400 Estonians live according to old rules, which have been set by women and transferred to their children. The colours of their skirts reveal, whether the women are happy or sad. During one year, the writer Julia Finkernagel has observed the struggle of the young and the old inhabitants to maintain their cultural identity and to combine it with modern developments.