In the middle of the chaotic traffic mayhem, between cars and rickshaws, wiry men ride leisurely on their elephants. They are a symbol for the highly venerated deity Ganesha. More than five thousand Mahouts live in the south Indian Kerala. The men take care of their elephants, which belong to temples or are privately owned by the wealthy. None of the big religious ceremonies and festivals, which take place in the numerous Hindu-temples of the region, can be celebrated without them as a highlight. This film presents the princess Lakshmi, who is an elephant lover, the two Mahouts Kuttan and Unni, and how an omnipresent tradition and a changing world meet each other.